The beautiful Tatra mountains

The beautiful Tatra mountains
Zakopane Day Tripper

Wednesday 9 February 2022

Skiing


Visitors to Zakopane for skiing should probably be warned, this is NOT a ski resort in the same sense as those one might venture to in the Alps. It is a town that has some areas for skiing. These areas are located separately and your choice of location must very much be governed by your ability and experience. It is probably not somewhere to select for a week of skiing. Rather, it is somewhere you can go and include skiing in other outdoor pursuits.
The skiing recommendations listed here starts with the biggest, most alpine area but then goes on to review some of the other complexes the town has to offer for all abilities.


KASPROWY WIERCH

Kasprowy Wierch Ski Website
This is the absolute BEST place to ski in Zakopane. It is alpine, located in two valleys fanning out from Kasprowy Wierch mountain which reaches an elevation of 1,987 metres. Since it is national park area, no snow cannons are allowed as they would disturb wildlife, so skiers must accept the snow conditions nature flings at them. This ski area, in lot of ways, is wonderfully undeveloped. I read somewhere that is is reminiscent of Austria at the end of the 19th century. However, that is not to say that it lacks the necessary uplift and infrastructure. Indeed, recent changes to how day passes operate has made this a super day out in some stunning scenery.
However, Kasprowy is only for intermediate and advanced skiers. Beginners, do not go here!

Escaping the Crowds in Summer in Zakopane

Zakopane in the months of July and August is uncomfortably busy. The roads are gridlocked, restaurants are packed and Krupowki street has a tsunami of bodies ebbing and flowing along it. Visitors seeking the peace and tranquility mountain trails should afford, will be appalled at the relentless lines of trekkers on the Tatra trails, and valleys seem so mobbed visitors must question why they bothered to make the effort to come to Zakopane in the first place. It is a fact for example, that during these months around 10,000 people per day make their way to the beautiful Morskie Oko lake. Why would anyone want to walk for 2 hours to stand in a line to purchase a drink at a mountain hut and sit on a lake shore with thousands of other people? 
Giewont mountain and Kasprowy Wierch are no better. Cable car queues stretch long distances even by 9am. Trekkers literally have stand in line to wait their turn to hang onto the chains needed make the final assent onto Giewont. Even more challenging routes such as Orla Perc are too busy with ill equipped scramblers causing bottlenecks on exposed, tricky sections where quite frankly, they really should not be. The situation on Orla Perc now means there has to be a one way system between Swinica and Kozi Wierch and from Zawrat to Swinica although many people do not heed this.
So the question is, is it worth going to Zakopane in summer? The answer is yes and no!
If I am being totally honest, it really is best to visit outwith this season. May, June and late September can bring warmth and more tranquility. October and March are quieter but the only drawback is the weather is more unstable.
The issues with visiting outwith summer are that from November to June, the Tatra valleys in Slovakia are closed to the public. The mountains anytime from October to May become caked in snow making any mountain ascent only possible if you are an experienced winter mountaineer with the correct equipment. Having said that though, there are some easier peaks that are accessible and the bouns is that lower trails are refreshingly people free.
For summer peace, try the suggestions below.

Trek 1 - Zazadnia/Rusinowa Polana/Gęsia Szyja (1489 m)

For this trek, jump on a Morskie Oko minibus and ask to be let off at Zazadnia. This is a parking area on a bend in the road on the way to Morskie Oko. Cost should be around 10zl.
The trails mentioned on this page - Zazadnia - provide a welcome break from the crowds in the summer, especially the black trail affording fantastic views over the Bielovodska valley to the mountains beyond. Although Rusinowa Polana itself can still be busy, it is possible to find your own space away from other groups. 



Shearing sheep by hand on Rusinowa Polana

Trek 2 - Bielovodska Dolina

The Bielovodska Dolina (valley) is in Slovakia. However, it is very easily accessed from Zakopane by making use of the many Morskie Oko minibuses from the town. Ask the driver to let you off at Lysa Polana which is the old Polish/Slovakian border crossing. Cost should be around 12zl. 
Cross the river and then turn immediately to your right onto the trail. This takes you into the beautifully tranquil Bielovodska valley. 
You can walk as far as you wish. In fact you can ultimately walk all the way to Stary Smokovec (a town in the Slovakian Tatras) but this involves crossing a high mountain pass which requires the use of chains, rungs and a good head for heights. However, there is no need to trek as far as this. Just enjoy the mighty cliff walls, gushing crystal clear river, open meadow and fragrant forests as a leisurely amble. 
Top tip. If you don't want to walk all the way back to the border crossing on your way back, look out for the point across the river to your left where you can see a bridge and hoards of people crossing it as they move on the Morskie Oko road. Wade across the river here and join the crowds making their way to the car park. Here you can jump on a minibus back to Zakopane with the added bonus of actually getting a seat (you are unlikely to have this luxury for your tired limbs if you catch the minibuses from the border post on the way back).





Wading the river to the Morskie Oko trail and the minibus back to Zakopane

Trek 3 - Zakopane panorama from the Gubalowka ridge

This trek is accessed from Krupowki main street. Make your way downhill to the bottom of the street and through the market. You can opt to take the funicular up onto Gubalowka ridge or, if you are full of energy, hike up the path next to the rails.

Once at the top station, turn left and make your way through the stalls along the tarmac road. I once read a suitable quote about this area saying that it puts the "tat into the Tatras". :) Either way, it is an entertaining stroll!
Eventually, the tat stalls thin out and you will end up at a road junction. Walk straight on following the signs for the black trail which proceeds along a dirt track. After a short distance things become a lot more peaceful and you can enjoy birdsong, blooms and butterflies.



If you are feeling you would like to continue your walk, then there is a black trail that continues along the ridge. This is a wonderful walk, affording great views, and will give you a real feel for rural Zakopane life. A small point to note is that if you tackle this trail in spring just after the snow has melted, the trail itself is very rutted, muddy and flooded in places. However, this can be easily avoided by walking on the outer edges of the track instead. Best place to descend the ridge is when you come to an open alpine meadow called Mietlowka with a ruined chalet in the middle of it. A trail will take you down through woodlands to Kierpcowka. Follow the road until it reaches Koscielisko. There is a very impressive wooden church at the junction onto the main road worth a visit. If your feet are aching, then you can catch a bus back to Zakopane at the stop further down the road. The buses are usually minibuses. Simply hop on and pay the driver when you are leaving. The fares are excellent value (around 3 zl).


Sunday 26 March 2017

Granaty



The approach to Schronisko PTTK Murowaniec

Granaty is part of Orla Perć. There is no one way system on it so in theory it has two possible access routes. However, due to a serious, tricky chimney climb at Żleb Kulczyńskiego, it is best approached from Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy. This massif actually consists of three peaks and is the easiest section of Orla Perć.
To access it involves tramping up the blue trail signposted for Schronisko PTTK Murowaniec from Kuznice. From Murowaniec mountain hut keep following the blue trail, but this time it is signposted for Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy. Once at the lake, follow the shoreline to your left for around 800 metres.
 Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy
Presently you will arrive at markers for a yellow trail which gains height quickly as it crosses diagonally over a scree filled gully. Once this is crossed, proceed up the path to the right of the gully onto the western rib of Skrajny Granat. The path then zig-zags upwards to the summit with some areas secured with chains for extra security.
The yellow trail zig-zags up the final stretch to Skrajny Granat
From the summit of Skrajny Granat (2225 metres), follow the ridge in a southerly direction, crossing Pośredni Granat (2234 metres) to access the highest point at Zadni Granat (2240 metres).

Pośredni Granat and Zadni Granat as seen from the yellow trail
There is a slightly awkward bit which involves stepping across an open gap between rocks, but there is a chain to grip on to. If you choose to continue to follow the ridge from here, there are two descent options. The first and easiest is the green trail down the south west slope. The second is more challenging. It involves continuing on the ridge until you meet a very abrupt descent in the form of a long chimney. This does present difficulty as one has to reverse down it backwards hanging onto chains and making use of metal, stapled steps into the rock. Although exhilarating, it is not for the faint hearted!
Chimney down to Żleb Kulczyńskiego

From the base of the chimney, you proceed down the black trail at Żleb Kulczyńskiego which via a green leading onto yellow trail, eventually connects you back on the blue trail back to Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy.









Saturday 11 June 2016

Orla Perc - Tatra Terror!

Adventurous visitors to Zakopane and the Tatra mountains will definitely love Orla Perc ridge. It is documented as a via ferrata, but it actually isn't in the true sense as there are no cables to clip into. The ridge itself is best attempted in sections due to the long access walks to the marked routes, however, each segment of it certainly won't disappoint if you enjoy hanging off chains over sheer cliff faces and exposed gullies. Route descriptions are practically non-existent in English so click on this High Peaks page link to find out more detail and images.
Essential map for Orla Perc
Dramatic section of Orla Perc

Contemplating the looming obstacle ahead!
Looking down onto the Buczynowa Dolina (Beech Valley)

Views across to the High Tatras
Views over the Five Polish Ponds from Orla Perc
Scrambling Orla Perc stylee

Monday 21 March 2016

Zakopane Easter Madness

If you happen to be in Zakopane on the 28th March, don't miss out on the Easter Monday madness at the Kalatówki  mountain hotel. It is quite a spectacle.
Locals dress up in old fashioned garb, don antiquated ski gear and hurtle down the ski slope fuelled by vodka. Singing, hilarity and craziness guaranteed.



Thursday 10 March 2016

Skiing in Zakopane? It would be rude not to!

Awesome skiing on Kasprowy, Zakopane today! Who needs the Alps!
These pictures are from the PKL Kasprowy Facebook page -  PKL Kasprowy - a useful link for checking out the ski conditions.




For more on skiing in Zakopane, check out the skiing page. 

http://zakopanedaytripper.blogspot.co.uk/p/skiing.html

Monday 8 February 2016

WINTER IN ZAKOPANE


Zakopane style buildings are unique. They make for a lovely festive scene in the winter months.
Click the pages above to access the wonderful world of Zakopane.